France hits Shein and Temu with fast fashion fees

What the report says

France has begun applying a new levy to fast-fashion and so-called ultra-fast-fashion products, in a move aimed at discouraging low-cost clothing sales by large online retailers. According to BBC World News, the measure took effect on Tuesday after lawmakers approved it in June and is intended to target companies such as Shein, Temu and AliExpress.

The French government says the policy responds to environmental and economic harms linked to high-volume, cheap clothing imports. The BBC reported that the fee is designed to be calculated using factors such as how much clothing a company places on the market and how repairable the garments are relative to their price. The charge will vary by item, with initial rates in 2026 ranging from low amounts on basic apparel to higher amounts on items such as jeans and jackets.

The levy is set to increase over time and could reach nearly €20 per garment by 2030, although it is capped at 50% of the product’s pre-tax price. The BBC said French officials have singled out ultra-fast fashion for criticism, while China’s commerce ministry has argued the law is discriminatory and may conflict with WTO principles.

The policy comes amid wider scrutiny of Shein and similar platforms over supply-chain ethics and the impact of cheap clothing on traditional retailers and the environment. This report was published as Shein continued to face attention in Europe over its business model and market expansion.